Everest-expedition

HALTI IS CLOTHING THE EVEREST-EXPEDITION

The Airborne Ranger Club of Finland expedition is climbing on the world's highest mountain using Halti equipment

Halti clothes and equips the 9 people expedition of the Airborne Ranger Club of Finland whose goal is to climb on the very summit of Mount Everest in 8 848 metres. When succeeding the expedition is the first Finnish group which climbs on the peak of the world's highest mountain. Veikka Gustafsson, Ari Piela and Antti Mankinen are the Finns who have climbed on the mountain earlier. With this action the expedition wants to highlight the Finnish guts: with careful preparing, acknowledging the needed information and strong will one can achieve the highest goals. The expedition is supposed to climb on the Mount Everest in March - May 2009.

Halti clothes and equips the Everest-expedition

Halti is the main clothing and equipment supplier of the Everest-expedition. Halti's hiking clothes are developed in cooperation with explorer Patrik Degerman.

- Extreme conditions require top quality clothes and equipment. In addition to Halti's clothes we will also use their backpacks, sleeping bags and tents, says Antti Inkinen who is responsible for the equipment of the Everest-expedition.

Halti has added the Everest-expedition in its Grade VII Team. Halti is taking advantage of the experience of Grade VII Team's top athletes when doing research and development.

Everest-expedition is not discouraged by setbacks

The Everest-expedition has been planning already for years to climb to Mount Everest. In 2008 the climb hindered but now in 2009 they have decided to start the journey as planned. The expedition starts their journey by heading towards Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, on 21.3.2009.

The Main Objectives

The Airbourne Ranger Club of Finland's main goal is to climb the 8 848m safely. Not only that the goal is to undertake scientific research of the acute mountain sickness in high altitude.

Halti products used by the Everest-expedition

Thermal layer: Antarctica jacket and pants
Shell layer: Gompa jacket and Rock softshell-jacket, Nepal pants
Mid layer: Atom shirt and Neutron pants
Base layer: Quantum and Dyna shirts and Geiger pants and Ion shorts
Other clothing: Gallium pants, Suberi set, Sois shorts and Trans shirt
Footwear: Ortler and Picton Mid hiking shoes and Karma sandals
Accessories: Headgear, gloves and socks
Carrying bags: Vertical 4 and 7 backpacks and Diam XL bag
Accommodation: Antarctica Pro 3 tent, Airlite 2000 Std-, Arctic 30 M and Arctic 30 L sleeping bags

More information on products can be found from Halti's web page www.halti.fi

You can familiarise yourself with the feelings of the Airborne Ranger Club of Finland Everest-expedition at www.everest.fi

Halti is following the expediton closely and below you can find few of their diary entries:  

23.5.2009 Last man down from the mountain

Well, now we have the last man down from the mountain and the only thing to do is to put down the basecamp and move to Kathmandu. Actually not first we will party couple of days in the camp! We will have small party with neighbouring expeditions.

Antti and Jussi came back down around noon and what did we saw, there was Santa Claus himself receiving them. He had decided whether there are any nice children around here and there were many... Other expeditions were really surprised and many wanted to have a picture with Santa.

All is well!

20.5.2009 The Summit Team is going up, C4 > 8848

Airborne Ranger Club Team summitted Mount Everest south side today at 07:50 AM, reports Juha this morning. The central lock is on top of the world.
The summiteers are Tomi Myllys and the rest summit team followed behind.

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Tomi reached the south summit at 06:45 and Antti + Jussi followed. Arri is about 1/2 h back.
Next there is 1h to the Hillary Step and finally last 1h to the summit itself.

Mikko and Esa are back in C4 in good shape.

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Today at 05:00 AM Arri reached The Balcony and Esa has turned back to C4.

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Today after 4 hours past midnight Antti, Jussi and Tomi are on Balcony. Esa and Arri followed a little behind and Mikko has turned back to C4.
Night is clear and wind is low - everything is fine on way to summit.

17.5.2009 Waiting is over now

Well well, the summit push is finally on. Tomi, Mikko, Arri, Jussi, Antti and Esa started today morning at 3am towards C2 and aiming for the summit in the morning of 20.5. Heikki joined them and his target is to reach South Col (8000m) and ensure as a doctor that everyone is ok to start towards summit from C4. Today they will go to C2 and rest there overnight. Tomorrow, 18.5, they will continue to C3 to rest another night. And in the morning of 19.5 they will go to C4 in South Col where they will put up one more tent. In C3-C4 leg the supplementary oxygen is already in use. In C4 they will have a rest and rehydrate themselves as well as eat before it is time to start towards the summit at around midnight. From C4 to the summit it will take between 8-12 hours depending on the traffic. Meaning that those who have guessed the summit time on 20.5 between 07:00-12:00 have a good change on winning the tent. We have received big load of answers, thanks for that.

Timo will start tomorrow morning towards C2. Target is to go to C3 and descend with Heikki. We want to ensure to have a radio contact to whole summit team at all times via C2. This is due to the fact that most probably the radio connection from basecamp to C4 and above will not work without problems all the time.

In the basecamp Juha will monitor the situation and will convey the weather forecast information (possible changes) and changes in the situation of other, known expeditions to the summit team as soon as they are available. During summit night we will keep the support team in Finland aware of the situation all the time and they will post the information in the diary. This way you, readers, can follow the summit attempt almost online! So, on Tuesday night from around 21:00 finnish time onwards you will be able to follow this unique entertainment in this same address.

All is well!

12.5.2009 Fresh and snowy winterlike weather

Six day high camp visit of Timo and Heikki was over when it was time to return to basecamp. On mother's day afternoon we started to descent from C2 to C1. Our plan was to continue further to basecamp. However, more and more dark and quickly moving clouds were seen in the sky just after midday. At first the weather seemed to be ok but after descending the rock section a few hundred meters down to the glacier, wind increased and it was snowing like back home in good days. Because we hadn't rope with us due to easy section between C2 and C1, it was a bit a guess to walk between crevasses. Now snow had hidden crevasses but fortunately there was a sherpa coming down and we decided to use him as 'mine sweeper'. He was hesitant about the route as well but we pointed out the direction and gave him a 10 meters advance hoping that he will not drop into a crevasse. Following sherpa's steps we soon saw a bamboo stick with a small red flag through our goggles and we were on the route again. The way down to C1 went quickly and crevasses were crossed safely.

Once at C1 wind was still strong and we were instructed to put down one tent so that the huge amount of equipment which had been carried up to mountain would also come back down little by little. The tent was covered with snow and ice all around and it required some patience to pack it. None of climbers seemed to move in the snow storm. Heikki and me thought that this kind of 'ranger weather' fits us well or at least there is no reason to complain about hot weather. However, we decided to stay at C1 overnight and continue in the following morning down to basecamp. After melting snow and eating it was nice to have a good sleep while Himalaya's night got dark and wind played its own iPod music.

In the morning wind was weaker and it was time to pass Khumbu icefall once again. Luckily enough a few Sherpas had gone through the route and we had a good path downwards. Of course fixed ropes were helping us to follow the route. It felt like at home when it was snowing and for a long time it was below zero at daytime. We reached basecamp just before lunch and it was nice to shake hands with other guys who have been waiting summit weather for a long time already. Forecasts are promising more snow and hard wind for coming days, so the nerve game is continuing.

All is well!

2.5.2009 The last preparations

Night view from Camp III tent Arri, Esa and Jussi returned to BC today after staying two nights at Camp III 7100 m. Sleeping wasn't allowed without carrying two hard loads up to Camp III on Lhotse face. A changed route was tiny extra surprise and that's why Arri and Jussi were forced to fix a safe route to the Camp III. Every of us spent good time on that altitude and that helped acclimatization for summit attempt. The others will sleep at camp III on coming days.

At high camps there is little to do but daydreaming, cooking and melting water. Major of time is spent as melting water because hydration need is 4-6 litres a day. This is for higher respiratory frequency and physical work. Eating itself is done with a common pot; got your spoon when ready. There is some problem to reach 'loo' from a tent at Camp III due to steep face the crampons and the axe are needed for safety reasons. Esa made this a little bit easier as shovelling a path to 'loo'.

25.4.2009 Camp III

Antti, Juha and Tomi have successfully put up a tent at Camp III, Lhotse face (7100 m). They have now returned to Camp II for good sleep and will arrive at BC tomorrow morning. The others are resting at BC and preparing for ascent to Camp III early next week.

Level of evacuation readiness was tested today when Korean climber had blood circulation problems and was evacuated to Kathmandu by a helicopter. The first flight was unsuccessful because no wind and the helicopter couldn't land due to thin air. Later in the afternoon afternoon moderate wind made evacuation possible and luckily patient wasn't in hurry.

All is well!

19.4.2009 Taking turns

The ladders are waiting for a climber at Khumbu. Now things work very well and equipments are moving higher and higer in men's backbags as day by day. Today Arri, Juha, Esa and Jussi put up tents at camp II and as usual they brought some equipment for Camp II and Camp III. The day's journey started from Camp I at dawn and ended to BC just at the lunch time. Antti, Mikko and Tomi packed their bags and headed from BC to Camp I in the early morning. They have planned to go and adjust equipments at Camp II tomorrow. Timo and Heikki are taking rest day and preparing to next ascent.

An answer for a question from the audience; we have been asked about Ice Doctors of whom we have told to fix the route over Khumbu icefall. They are actually local professionals whos duty are to search and fix the best and the safest route in that very challenging terrain. Seracs (huge chunks of ice) are moving continously and warm of the sun is melting seracs and anchors, so the care must be taken. Without Ice Doctors way up would be stopped at BC for an average Everest climbers and for those who has more experience in ice climbing and route reading skills, the way over Khumbu would take dangerously long time.

All is well!

13.4.2009 Camp I 6100 m

Finally, last night at 3am under the full moon, team 'well fit' headed up to the Camp I taking plenty of equipment for Camps I and II with them. When team 'not so well fit' woke up at BC, climbers feelings were asked and the conclusion seemed to be that Antti 'the quick foot' from Hollola was above the steep serac section and would reach Camp I very
soon. At 8 o'clock we reseived a message at BC that Antti had reached Camp I and would start to prepare camp sites and to put up a tent he had carried up.

The other four Mikko, Juha, Tomi and Heikki went up pretty much side by side and they reached Camp I while Antti was preparing to decent back down to BC. The Camp I was fully fixed just before midday and all others started their decent to BC. In the good conditions and as well acclimatized teh altitude of BC the normal ascent time from BC to Camp I is approx 6 - 8 hours. Later when acclimatization level is higher the ascent time will be aroud four hours. Vice versa the way down takes about two hours.

Even the official opening time of the Khumbu route was today after guys had left BC the early start was really smart move because at around 7 o'cock there was a long row of 'ants' climbing through the serac section. The night start is slightly safer as well because the sun won't melt seracs and anchors before 9 am.

At BC Jussi and Esa are waiting for their fever is easying down and Arri is having problem with his back muscles. Timo had reached Gorak Shep today and will arrive BC tomorrow morning. If all health problems have gone Jussi, Esa and Arri will ascent to Camp one on coming night or at least a day after when the next push of the whole expedition has planned.

We have been very glad to receive greetings, jokes, news from Finland and around via the expedition mail. We are looking forward new mails at retkikunta@everest.fi

All is well!

Weather: Sunny, totally windless and desperately hot at Camp I

7.4.2009 Second day in basecamp

Our camp

Morning started after snowfall sunny and warm. It was again time to check our equipment so everything would be ready when the route to camp1 opens, hopefully after few days. There are rumours that it is done half way through. The movement of the glacier and changing weather conditions make the predictions only predictions. Even though based on our original plan we were supposed to be the first carry to the camp1 the situation is not alarming since we are able to acclimatise better by staying in the BC altitude. This means that we may be able to make the first trip directly to camp2 and start approaching camp3 sooner. Camp3 is critical since there are only limited amount of camp sites there. Therefore it would be very good to be well acclimatised when the higher camp building starts.

The base camp itself starts to fill with climbers. We have got Swedish-Spanish, Indian and Croatian teams into our neighbourhood. The whole BC is huge since there are between 30-40 separate expeditions to Everest and some to Lhotse. In the picture of the day there is a sketch of our camp. The closest tent is Tomi's and Heikki's, leftmost one is mess tent where we dine and spend time. Next one on the left is the tent of our cooks and sirdar, kitchen tent and store tent. Behind left is Arri's and Jussi's tent, Juha's tent and Mikko's and Antti's tent. Today we have also set up a tent for Esa and Timo who are arriving in a few days time to the BC.

All is well!

6.4.2009 Base Camp 5300m 

The expedition reached the Base camp today however Esa and Timo are following us later. Halti tents were put up just before it started to snow. Ice doctors are preparing the route over Khumbu ice fall and we are supposed to have plenty of rest days here in Base Camp before starting to carry staff to higher camps.

All is well!

4.4.2009 Fly's normipäivä

Boys on the road Dear diary, Lobuche 4920 m. In the morning, when the sun gave the first rays on the ground of Periche vallay, we were again starting our day routines. In other words this means walking towards Base Camp. My eyes got a fly which tried to walk up cold and gray stone. I stepped just beside the fly and it was so tiny compared to my number 45 boot. At the same time I realised the huge giants around me. What, I was just in front of great mountains and definitely smaller than that tony fly! NORMIPAIVA (The very normal day)

The expedition moved 700 vertical meters up to Lobuche village. The village is between amazing mountains but the scene otherwise is very rough. our shoes touched mainly stones, dried grass and ice as we walked up. Here in Lobuche there are only six small Lodge, five horses, 15 habitants and a few birds and nothing else. We are looking forward for tomorrow's walk. A huge thanks for those all who have sent mail and questions to us. The one of our most important moments every day is a dinner because that time we read all messages from Finland and around the world. This is and for sure remains as the only moment when we have the total silence... of course one of us is reading.

All well in the expedition! Best regards to our friends, families and loved ones!

31.3.2009 Another acclimatization day in Namche

Namche It was a cold morning in Namche. Our group got together 8am at breakfast to make plan for the day. The agenda was quickly made: free program in the surroundings and in the streets of Namche. Timmu, however, wanted to give a brief morning exercise to the group. Other named this 15 minutes of sweat to "Morning carousel of Little-Piggy". Name "Little-Piggy" refers to heavily developed middle torso of Timmu. Expedition believes that the BMIs (Body Mass Index) of "Big-Piggy" (Mikko) and "Little-Piggy" will meet within two weeks. The angle of the BMI curve of both is high - the other being only negative.

Tomorrow most of us will head to Tengboche. Mikko and Arri will spend one more day acclimatizing in Namche.

All is well.

PS. We saw the first glimpse of Everest today

29.3.2009 Uphill to Namche Pazar

Village people near Namche Pazar It was a cold morning in Phakting. Dogs or maybe wolfs were yelling outside and kept some of us awake at night. Rest pulse was measured before the breakfast and after that we headed our way 800 vertical meters up to Namche Pazar. On the way we had a lunch break at Jorsaille which gave us more energy to walk through the awesome scenes. For measurement of oxygen saturation during work out we had to run for awhile to uphill to get pulse arise. This amazed American trekkers who were thinking we are "crazy finns". The last push up to 3450 meters altitude made our leg's muscles to feel a bit sore. Mikko and Arri are still a day behind us, but are most probably reaching Namche tomorrow.

The expedition has received some questions about those extra names in our climbing permit as you can see in this diary a couple of days back. Due to technical reasons our local organiser applied the permit together with another expedition which however won't have anything to do with us.
As well the question about weights of our equipments and other stuff has taken attention. Total load of 3000 kg include personal equipments, food, oxygen systems, cooking gas, tents (26 pcs) and basecamp equipments.

All well!

23.3.2009 Arrival at Kathmandu 22.3.2009

Today morning we came to the office of our local organizer, Thamserku. We checked the the tents and cargo. All tents were set up and the zippers and materials of inner and outer tents were checked. All tents are ok for repacking for transfer to basecamp.

When going through the cargo we found out that part of Jussi's stuff was not there. All other staff except harness, slings, ascender and middle layer clothing were there. Even though all was in the packing list, the mistake had happened when packing in Finland. Anyhow, all these can be bought in Kathmandu so no problem.

21.3.2009 Expedition starts

 
The gang

Well well. Everything has been packed, everyone arrived at the airport almost in time and without mishaps (except one who got cought speeding), check-in has been done and everyone are in the airport international area waiting for boarding. All we can do now is to sit back and relax.

We will have a transit in Delhi and continue to Kathmandu. There we will arrive on Sunday evening local time. First thing to do is to check the cargo and ensure it is intact. If something has broken down we try to repair it or get new item from Kathmandu. We will also get some more food supplies from local stores.

Next update will be coming either from Delhi airport or from Kathmandu. Stay tuned.